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Wednesday, February 25, 2009

Madame Alexander Dolls

Martha Ann, before any of your club members think I speak with a lisp, whistle show tunes, like Liberace and prance around at gay pride parades, let me settle on the basis for my question: my daughter told me that Madame Alexander dolls are very valuable collectibles — and that some are worth thousands. First, is this true? And, second, do you or any of your members think there is an investment value in acquiring one or more. You know, like valuable old coins, paintings, etc.

Tuesday, February 24, 2009

DOLL RESTORATION AND CONSERVATION

Below is the clickable site where I found this information on the internet. You may want to click on this to get more information than I was able to put in this post.


doll restoration


Doll Restoration and Conservation
What you need to know
"Conservation differs from restoration by aiming to preserve and clarify what survives, rather than replace what is missing."

"Conservation is a race against time"

"Do nothing that cannot be undone" (Bettyanne Twigg, UFDC President)

There is an epidemic in doll collecting--an epidemic of doll restoration. This epidemic has been fostered by the easy, open market of eBay and other online auction houses, which has allowed collectors to easily sell items from their collections (as well as their garage sale and estate sale finds). Naturally, a vintage or antique doll that is photo-ready with a perky dress, bright painted features and a neat hairdo is going to sell quicker than a doll with aged-looking clothing, faded paint and flaws. So, collectors by the thousands are taking their vintage and antique dolls that are not in mint condition, and they are doing everything in their power to make the doll and its outfit more perfect--they curl and style the hair, they wash, bleach and starch the doll costume (or replace it entirely, whether it is original to the doll or not), and they repair tears and repaint facial features.

Now, I am not NECESSARILY saying there is anything wrong with this....what I AM saying is that there is a right way to restore a doll that preserves its originality, historical value, and that does not damage a doll. On the other hand, careless restoration can actually damage the value of the doll, and also destroy any historical value it might have. I agree strongly with, and cannot emphasize enough, the importance of the UFDC motto on doll conservation and restoration: "Do nothing that cannot be undone."

Additionally, a vital aspect of doll collecting is often overlooked by eager doll collectors--conservation of their dolls. To conserve dolls is to preserve them--to fight against the damaging forces of temperature, light, insects, dirt, dust and time. Conservation, properly done and understood, will help your treasures last your lifetime, and hopefully to also last for generations to come.

This multi-part article will help you navigate the topics of doll restoration and conservation. There are sections on conservation/restoration of bisque dolls, vinyl dolls, doll costumes, doll wigs and paper preservation. There is also an extensive bibliography, and links to sites with further information on these topics. I have taken the information in this article from many sources--my own experience, the experience of my husband who has taken an in-depth course in porcelain and composition repair, and courses on restoration and conservation taken at UFDC conventions given by well-known doll conservationist (and UFDC president!) Bettyanne Twigg, and also given by the conservator at the Strong Museum in Rochester, NY.

DEFINITIONS

The following definitions are not necessarily the ONLY ones--some people would call preservation and conservation the same process. I will use preservation and conservation interchangeably here.

Preservation: Protect a doll from destructive forces--heat, light, insects, dust and dirt.

Conservation: Treat something which already happened and HALT the problem (string a doll, treat an insect infestation, re-set eyes that have fallen out, stop further melting of silks, etc.)

Restoration: Replace or fix something NOT on a doll, or improve something on a doll. Cleaning dirty outfits, add a new finger, restyle/add a wig, repaint a doll.

General Principles of Doll Restoration

How Severe Should The Restoration Be?: I've mentioned it in the introduction, and I'll mention it here again--do NOTHING that cannot be undone--at least to any vintage or antique doll with historical value--most antique dolls, vintage dolls with original clothing an presentation, etc. Now, obviously if you have a vintage Barbie that is a basket case--no face paint, vinyl splits, hair a mess, no original clothing--the doll has little or NO historical (or other!) value, and that is a perfect candidate for no-holds barred restoration including perhaps treatments and repainting that cannot be undone! The only caveat I have here is if you DO restore a doll that is a total basket case, PLEASE employ the proper ethics and make sure that all such restoration is disclosed upon the sale of the doll.

Wash Your Hands! Wash your hands quite a bit while you are working with vintage or antique dolls-or wear gloves. Oils from your hands transfer to dolls and doll clothing. You don't SEE the oils, but the oils attract bugs, mold, and dirt. Some people use baby wipes to clean their hands--I use plain soap (such as ivory) and water only since I am worried about types of residue that baby wipes may leave on dolls and their clothes. Another reason to use gloves when working with dolls is to protect yourself from substances that can be ON new, unfamiliar your dolls--You should use gloves to protect yourself when working with unfamiliar dolls (you don't know if pesticides have been used, etc.) I will admit that I have a hard time following this advice, as I hate to wear gloves when I am working.

SEE What You are Doing: Use white cloths to clean dolls so you can SEE what the effect is--are you lifting just dirt from the doll, or also paints, too? And, only work in a very well lighted area; if you have daylight corrected bulbs, that is ideal.

Be Prepared: Have everything before you (tools, materials, etc). set out before you start. Don't eat/drink while you are working (bad things from the doll can get in your food and drink--bugs, chemicals, even pesticide residues--you DON'T know what treatments/problems a doll ahs before you get it!) AND, trust me, coffee spilled all over a composition doll or body you are working on WILL damage it.

Ventilation!: Only repair dolls with proper ventilation--some of the items that are used for cleaning and restoring dolls can give off harmful fumes.

Keep a Trail....If you take a doll completely apart, sketch things before you do this so you can get them back together again (this is particularly important for dolls with complicated bodies that need restringing).

Ethics of Selling a Restored Doll: If you sell a doll, you MUST disclose any changes made to the doll--any repainting, repairs, added materials (new eyes, wig). For certain vintage dolls such as vintage Barbie, even restyling the hair effects the value and should be disclosed; so does washing the clothing. However, you do not have to disclose basic conservation measures such as cleaning dolls. For antique dolls, washing of clothing and restyling of wigs is generally not required to be disclosed.

Don't miss the rest of the articles (below!) in this series--find out everything from how to clean a composition doll, to how to repair a split in a vinyl Barbie doll, to how to clean doll clothes safely, and also where to find LOTS of additional information!

Second Page > General Principles of Doll Conservation: How To Make Your Treasures Last! > Page 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7

Third Page > Tips For Successful Doll Restoration > Page 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7

Fourth Page > Tips on Doll Costume and Textile Restoration > 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7

Fifth Page > Special Tips for Restoration of Barbie and other Plastic Dolls >1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7

Sixth Page > Links to Suppliers of Conservation and Restoration Products; Links to sites About Conservation and Restoration > Page 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7

Seventh Page > Bibliography: Books on Doll Restoration and Conservation > Page 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7

Sunday, February 22, 2009

M and M's Miniature Baby Dolls, Ashton Drake

M&M's Miniature Baby Dolls

Click on the link above to see M&M's Miniature Baby Dolls. They are cute, and realistically detailed for such small dolls.

Tuesday, February 10, 2009

BABY LOVE N TOUCH BY MATTEL 1979

 

 


Here is a cute collectible 13" vinyl and cloth baby doll, which resembles the 1943 Effanbee soft, floppy, cloth-bodied Babyette baby doll. Love N Touch has a vinyl head with rooted hair and painted eyes, vinyl hands, and "bottom," which can be seen through the p.j. opening in back. There is also an African-American version. The doll feels "floppy," just like a real baby, and poses well. You can find them at good prices on ebay. The original outfit is an all-in-one footed yellow pajama with hood.
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BASKET OF ANTIQUE GERMAN BABY DOLLS

 


Here are some antique baby dolls. There are 2 Bye-Lo babies on the left, and one on the right (made in Germany and designed by Grace Storey Putnam using a newborn as a model), a large K star R Kaiser baby 100 in solid cap on the left (so-called because he was named for the Kaiser's son who had a withered arm) and a smaller Kaiser baby to the right, a large Armand Marseiles baby with lower teeth in crocheted cap on the left and a large baby on the right with painted eyes marked only 3-11. Holding a greeting card is a small Heubach baby. There is an Armand Marseiles Dream Baby in front of the 2 on the left wearing caps. Comment below if you have questions. Remember to double click on the picture to enlarge it.
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Tuesday, February 3, 2009

Raggedy Anns and Andy

 

 




Here is a "Mama-made" Raggedy Ann which took my fancy at the Huntsville Doll Show and Sale. She is my mascot during chemo; I love her expressive eyebrows, her surprised look, and crazy outfit. She makes me smile.

Here are a pair of Knickerbocker Raggedies from the 60's that I found at the flea market for $5.00 each. What a find for a collector! They are all original, even with ribbons and hat, and obviously never played with.

Raggedies are definitely collectible, and still can be found at reasonable prices.


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Thursday, January 8, 2009

DREAM COME TRUE CHRISTMAS PRESENT

 

 


Someone must have been good all year for Santa to bring this for a present! Here is "Angelique," a French Figure A Steiner, circa 1887 and made for 4 years. She has a creamy, flawless bisque surface, gentle shading and painting of features and plump molding. She has huge, blue paperweight eyes, a full-lipped closed mouth and an antique blonde wig. Her straight wrist excellent Steiner body encases a working "Mama/Papa" crier with the original pull strings. Angelique wears antique silk, an antique bonnet of silk and antique shoes of pale blue leather
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Tuesday, January 6, 2009

INTERESTING CHINA AND BISQUE DOLLS

+++ REMEMBER TO LEFT CLICK TWICE ON PICTURES TO ENLARGE +++

 

 

 



If you have questions about these dolls, please comment below.
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CHINA AND BISQUE DOLLS

 

 

 

 


Here are some very interesting chinas (shiny as opposed to mat) and a few bisque (unshiny) dolls - also a few compositions, including a Shirley Temple. The chinas with the blue bows are highly unusual for chinas; the bows and hairdos are different, and the sloping shoulders show they are early. If you have questions about them, please click on comment below.
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Tuesday, December 30, 2008

OPENING RECEPTION FOR AMERICANA STAMP DOLL EXHIBIT AT HOMEWOOD PUBLIC LIBRARY

 

 

 

 


This 2006 Reception opened our exhibit of dolls depicted in the U.S. Doll Stamps (see earlier post for photos of the dolls). Miss Unity (milliner doll in white with blue ribbon trim) is the official doll of UFDC. Brenda Welker, Regional Director of the United Federation of Doll Clubs, was one of the guests (on left in group photo).
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Saturday, December 27, 2008

A CHINESE SILK-MAKING FAMILY

 


A member found these antique ceramic heads in an estate sale; they are beautifully sculpted and painted. She made bodies and dressed them as a wealthy Chinese family in the silk trade. They resemble "Door of Hope" Chinese dolls, which are much sought-after. These heads were probably made during the same time period (early 1900's).
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RECENT DOLL SHOE WORKSHOP

 

 

 

 


Use a paper towel to determine size for your doll's foot. Here are a few patterns. You must add about 1/4" on the edge for a turn-under seam.
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GLUING TOP TO THE SOLE OF THE SHOE

 

 

 

 


After making cuts around edge, glue seam to one of the sole cutouts, which can be cardboard or leather. The second sole is glued to the bottom to cover the seam. Use tacky craft glue for a quick job. My, what concentration!
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FINISHED DOLL SHOES FROM WORKSHOP

 

 

 

 


Here are dolls waiting for their shoes to be finished. Also a pair of finished shoes with grommets from the craft store, leather-like shoestrings, and cut from leather-like fabric with a seam in back. Here's a happy finish to the workshop with a pupil, teacher, and a well-shod doll!
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Monday, December 22, 2008

SNOWBABIES - HAPPY HOLIDAYS!




A snow baby (sometimes spelled snowbaby) is a small figurine that depicts some aspect of the Christmas holidays or of winter sports such as skiing and ice skating. The traditional snow baby is made of unglazed porcelain (bisque) and shows a child dressed in a snow suit; the suit itself is covered in small pieces of crushed bisque, giving the appearance of fallen snowflakes. However, many other sorts of figures are typically associated with these snowy children: Santas, elves and gnomes, carolers, animals such as penguins and polar bears, adult sledders and skaters, snowmen, and even houses and Disney characters. Collectors in the United States and Europe will sometimes decorate for the holidays using these figures to create winter scenes of varying degrees of complexity.

Although classical snow babies stand under 2 inches high and were often used in England as cake decorations, there are many variations. Some of the oldest types, made in Germany during the decade beginning about 1905, ranged from 4 to 13 inches tall and were carefully painted by master artisans. Other babies created during this early period were crafted with similar attention to detail. With the onset of World War I, production stopped; when it resumed sometime around 1922, the snow babies were more hastily made, less finely detailed in their porcelain and finish. Yet these newer pieces show children, Santas, and elves in remarkably imaginative poses: a child feeds a seal from a baby bottle; Santa drops toys from an airplane; two dwarves dance atop a psychedelic mushroom. The variations are nearly endless: one estimate puts their number at well over 2000.

Just before World War II, Japan began to produce snow babies, though they were generally of a lesser quality than those made in Germany. In the late 20th Century, a company called Department 56 began producing snow babies in Taiwan.

From Wikipedia